A yule log is a chocolate Swiss roll with buttercream bark. The sponge is thin, it bakes in about ten minutes, and then you’ve got maybe a minute to roll it while it’s still warm. The tin does more of the work than you’d think.

What size tin?

Most British recipes, including the classic three-egg chocolate roulade, are written for a 33 x 23cm Swiss roll tin. Use a bigger tray and the batter spreads too thin, overbakes and cracks. Use a smaller one and you get a thick sponge that won’t roll. So start with the size your recipe says, and for most people that’s 33 x 23.

The one I’d buy

The Stellar Non-Stick Swiss Roll Tin is exactly that size, 33 x 23cm with 2cm sides. Amazon UK buyers rate it very highly, which is a good sign for something as plain as a baking tin.

Stellar non-stick Swiss roll tin, 33cm by 23cm, in dark grey

From the listing:

  • 1mm carbon steel, so it’s rigid and heats evenly
  • Rolled edges, which Stellar says stop it warping or flexing
  • Double layer non-stick on every surface
  • Dishwasher safe

The even heat is the bit that matters for a yule log. A thin, flimsy tray gets hot spots, the edges crisp up while the middle is still soft, and crisp edges are exactly where the sponge splits when you roll it. A heavy tin that stays flat in a hot oven gives you an even sponge from corner to corner.

I’d still line it with baking parchment. Non-stick is nice, but a lined tin means you can lift the whole sponge out in one go, which is what you need for the next step.

How to roll it without it cracking

  1. Don’t overbake. Take it out as soon as the top springs back when you press it lightly. A dry sponge cracks. A slightly underdone one rolls.
  2. Get your paper ready first. Before the sponge comes out, lay a fresh sheet of parchment on the worktop and dust it with caster sugar or cocoa.
  3. Turn it out straight away. Flip the hot sponge onto the dusted paper and peel off the lining paper.
  4. Roll it warm, with the paper inside. Roll it up from a short end with the paper still in it, and let it cool rolled. That sets the shape. Once it’s cold, unroll it gently, spread on the filling and roll it again without the paper.

And if it does crack a bit? It’s a yule log. Cover it in chocolate buttercream, drag a fork along it for bark, and nobody will ever know.

If you’re baking a proper fruit cake this year too, here’s the tin I’d use for a Christmas cake.