Butternut squash is one of the best things about this time of year and one of the most annoying to get ready. The skin is tough, the shape is awkward, and the whole thing wants to roll off the board the moment you put any pressure on it. Most of the bother comes from tackling it whole. Break it down first and it gets a lot easier.

The method that works

  1. Top and tail it. Slice a thin piece off both ends so it can stand up flat.
  2. Cut it where the neck meets the bulb. Now you’ve got two stable pieces instead of one wobbly one. The neck is solid flesh; the round end holds the seeds.
  3. Stand each piece on its flat end and peel downwards. Long strokes, top to bottom, turning as you go. Keep going until the pale stripy layer under the skin is gone and you’re into bright orange flesh, because that stripy bit stays chewy.
  4. Halve the bulb and scoop out the seeds with a sturdy spoon. Then chop to whatever size you need.

If the skin is really fighting you, microwave the whole squash for two or three minutes first. It softens the outer layer just enough without cooking the inside. Let it cool a bit before you handle it.

Why your normal peeler struggles

A standard swivel peeler has a narrow blade made for carrots and potatoes. On squash it skips and clogs, and you end up taking off thin, uneven strips while gripping hard enough to make your hand ache.

The OXO Good Grips Large Vegetable Y Prep Peeler is made for this. OXO name butternut squash and aubergine as what it’s for. The blade is noticeably wider than a normal Y-peeler, so each pass takes off a broad strip and you get round the squash in far fewer strokes. It’s Japanese stainless steel, it won’t rust, and it goes in the dishwasher. The handle is the chunky non-slip OXO one, which matters more than you’d think when your hands are wet.

It isn’t a do-everything peeler. That wide blade is clumsy on a small carrot, so you’ll probably keep your regular one too. But if you cook squash, celeriac or swede more than a couple of times a season, it’s worth the drawer space.

Once it’s peeled, roast cubes at a high heat with oil and a pinch of chilli, or simmer them into soup. Peeled, chopped squash also keeps in a sealed tub in the fridge for a few days, so it’s worth doing a whole one at once.